Discover Tanzania: Safari Adventure & Zanzibar Beach Escape
Why Tanzania & Zanzibar?
A visit to Africa had been on our bucket list for quite some time. But where should we go? Where was there the most to discover? And above all: where was it safe? After extensive research, we finally came across Tanzania and Zanzibar.
General Introduction
Tanzania is a country in East Africa, located on the Indian Ocean. It has about 60 million inhabitants and an area of around 945,000 km², making it one of the largest countries in Africa. The capital of Tanzania is Dodoma, but the economic center is Dar es Salaam. The island of Zanzibar is part of Tanzania and lies in the Indian Ocean, about 50 km off the mainland coast.
The official language in Tanzania is Swahili (Kiswahili), although English is also widely spoken. The population is ethnically and culturally diverse. The majority of Tanzanians are Christian – a significant portion of the population also practices Islam, especially along the coast and on Zanzibar.
Tanzania's economy is based on agriculture, mining, and tourism, with the Serengeti National Park and Mount Kilimanjaro – the highest mountain in Africa – among the main tourist attractions.
Diverse Flora & Fauna
In Tanzania, you will find some of the most breathtaking natural landscapes in the world, such as the Serengeti, the Ngorongoro Crater, and Mount Kilimanjaro. With a bit of luck, you can spot the “Big Five” (lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, and rhino) in the wild during your safari.
Safety & Hospitality
Tanzania is considered one of the safest travel destinations in Africa (Security Level 2 according to the Austrian Foreign Ministry, as of July 2024). As long as you stick to tourist routes and follow common travel safety tips for developing countries, potential risks are minimal. Tourists are usually met with friendliness. More on this in the section “Important Travel & Safety Tips.”
Dreamy Beaches on Zanzibar
The island of Zanzibar, on the other hand, offers paradise-like white sandy beaches with turquoise water – perfect for relaxing, diving, and snorkeling after an exhausting safari.
Cultural Diversity & History
But that’s not all: Zanzibar was once an important hub for the spice and slave trade. In the old town of Stone Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you can visit historic buildings while sightseeing and observe the colorful hustle and bustle of the markets.
Diverse Experiences
The combination of adventurous safaris, relaxing beach days, and cultural diversity makes Tanzania and Zanzibar a unique travel destination.
Best Time to Visit & Climate
The best time to experience safaris in Tanzania and plan a relaxing holiday on Zanzibar is between June and October. This period is the dry season, with daytime temperatures reaching up to 30°C. It’s pleasantly warm, the weather is stable, and there is little rain – ideal for wildlife spotting or beach relaxation. However, note that the weather inland and in national parks can be somewhat cooler year-round than on the coast or islands. Nighttime temperatures can drop to 5°C, and mornings can be quite chilly. Therefore, don’t forget to bring some warmer clothing – especially for cooler nights on safari and higher altitudes where temperatures can noticeably drop.
From November to January, the weather is slightly warmer (25–32°C), but especially in coastal areas, more frequent rain showers can occur. Traveling between March and May is generally not recommended due to heavy rains and potential flooding. Roads may become difficult to navigate, and many tourist accommodations and activities may be unavailable or limited.
Arrival
Arrival on the Tanzanian mainland is mainly via international airports in Dar es Salaam and Arusha. On the island of Zanzibar, there is the international airport “Zanzibar International Airport.”
Airports
The largest airport in the country is the Julius Nyerere International Airport (DAR) in Dar es Salaam. The Kilimanjaro International Airport (JRO) in Arusha is often used by travelers visiting Mount Kilimanjaro or Serengeti National Park. Zanzibar has the Zanzibar International Airport (ZNZ), which is used by island visitors.
Flight Connections
Direct flights from Europe, Asia, and the Middle East connect Tanzania with major international cities. Airlines such as Qatar Airways, Emirates, Turkish Airlines, and KLM offer regular connections. For Zanzibar, there are also flights from various cities on the African continent, and many connections from Dar es Salaam exist as well.
Accommodation
Tanzania and Zanzibar offer a wide range of accommodations, from luxurious resorts to simple guesthouses and lodges.
Luxury Accommodation
On the mainland, there are numerous luxurious lodges and resorts, especially in major national parks like the Serengeti, the Ngorongoro Crater, or at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro. In Zanzibar, there are also exclusive hotels and beach resorts located directly on the sea, offering first-class service.
Mid-range and Budget Accommodation
For travelers on a smaller budget, there are many mid-range hotels, guesthouses, and hostels, especially in cities like Dar es Salaam and Arusha, as well as in Stone Town on Zanzibar. These offer good comfort at more affordable prices.
Safari Accommodation
In the national parks and reserves, there is a wide variety of safari lodges and camps that allow close contact with nature. These range from simple tents to luxurious safari camps with private guides and exclusive experiences.
Beach Accommodation on Zanzibar
Zanzibar is famous for its white sandy beaches and clear waters. Here, there is a large selection of hotels, from simple beach bungalows to high-class resorts. Especially in the north and east of the island, many popular accommodations can be found.
Tanzania and Zanzibar offer options for all types of trips – whether luxury vacations, safaris, or beach holidays – catering to individual needs.
Important Travel & Safety Tips
Before traveling to Tanzania and Zanzibar, it is important to be informed about general travel and safety tips in the country as well as the current situation on-site (e.g., political changes, natural disasters, or other events). Make sure to follow the current recommendations of your foreign office or local embassy to minimize potential risks.
As a rule, it is advised to be especially cautious in busy public places such as markets, bars, and ATMs, as pickpocketing, minor crimes, as well as robbery or temporary kidnappings can occur. Remote beaches and areas should be avoided. Women should also avoid revealing clothing. It is recommended to use registered taxis and keep important documents and large amounts of money in the hotel safe. Walking or traveling overland at night is risky. Check in advance which vaccinations and medications you need to prevent diseases such as malaria, and pay attention to your health during the trip. It is best to take out an additional travel insurance.
Health & Vaccinations
Before embarking on your trip to Tanzania and Zanzibar, you should also prepare carefully in health terms. In specialized facilities, such as a tropical institute, you can learn which vaccinations and medications you need for your trip.
Yellow Fever
A yellow fever vaccination is officially only required when entering from a yellow fever risk area, but it is still recommended.
Cholera
Especially in rural areas and after heavy rainfall, cholera outbreaks can occur. An oral cholera vaccine (Dukoral or Vaxchora) is particularly recommended for long-term stays or travel to affected areas. Good food and drinking water hygiene is essential to avoid infections.
Malaria
There is also a high malaria risk in many parts of Tanzania. Malaria is an infectious disease primarily transmitted by dusk- and night-active Anopheles mosquitoes. It can cause high fever, chills, and severe complications, and untreated cases can even be fatal. For this reason, a malaria prophylaxis in the form of medication and protective measures such as mosquito nets and insect repellents is recommended. Currently, there is no vaccine available.
The following malaria prophylaxis tablets are commonly used:
- ›Atovaquone/Proguanil (Malarone) – well tolerated, taken daily
- ›Doxycycline – cheaper, but may cause skin sensitivity to sunlight
- ›Mefloquine (Lariam) – weekly intake, but may have potential psychological side effects
After consulting a tropical doctor, we decided (despite the highest price) on Malarone and tolerated it very well during our trip.
We also stocked up on sufficient insect repellent spray. Pay special attention to the ingredients: To protect against malaria mosquitoes, insect repellents with DEET, Icaridin, or PMD are recommended. Preparations with at least 30–50% DEET or 20–30% Icaridin are particularly effective, as they provide long-lasting protection.
Recommended active ingredients:
- ›DEET (Diethyltoluamide, 30–50%) – very effective protection, but can damage plastics
- ›Icaridin (20–30%) – similarly effective, more skin-friendly than DEET
- ›PMD (20–30%) – plant-based alternative with shorter protection duration
We used the following Nobite products:
- ›Nobite Skin Spray (50% DEET) – very strong protection for up to 8 hours
- ›Nobite Clothing Spray (Permethrin) – makes clothes mosquito-proof and provides extra protection
- ›Nobite Sensitive (20% Icaridin) – good alternative for sensitive skin
Additionally, you can protect yourself through the following measures:
- ›Clothing: Wear light, long clothing and socks to avoid mosquito bites
- ›Insect Protection: Use mosquito sprays or creams with DEET or Icaridin on exposed skin
- ›Locations: Avoid open spaces after dusk – better are accommodations with air conditioning or mosquito screens
- ›Sleeping: Sleep under an impregnated mosquito net to keep mosquitoes away
- ›Environment: Avoid standing water and, if possible, avoid traveling during the rainy season
- ›Medication: Consult a tropical doctor in advance – they can recommend the right malaria prophylaxis or emergency medication
Additional Vaccinations
In addition, all standard vaccinations (tetanus, diphtheria, polio, measles, hepatitis A and B, as well as typhoid) should be checked and updated if necessary. A well-stocked travel first aid kit with essential medications, disinfectants, and bandages can also be helpful.
Health Facilities
The medical infrastructure in Tanzania and Zanzibar is limited outside major cities such as Dar es Salaam, Arusha, or Zanzibar City. In remote areas, there are only a few modern hospitals, and the quality of healthcare can vary. High-quality private clinics are mainly found in larger cities, but treatments there are often expensive and should be covered by travel insurance with medical evacuation options.
Visa & Entry Requirements
Zanzibar follows the same entry regulations as mainland Tanzania. However, upon arrival on the island, there are often additional security checks. A visa is generally required for entry. You can apply online via the official Tanzanian government portal. Alternatively, a Visa on Arrival can be obtained directly at the airport or border crossings. Tip: It is recommended to request the e-visa in advance to avoid long queues at the airport. You should also apply for the visa several weeks before your trip. If problems occur during the application process — such as payment issues — you may need to wait a few days for a response from the authorities.
Additionally, you should check for current regulations to ensure smooth entry. Your passport must be valid for at least six months beyond your travel date. You may also be required to show a return flight ticket upon entry. Travelers from yellow fever risk areas must be vaccinated against yellow fever (as of July 2024). Pre-registration for travel is also recommended.
Money & Currency
The official currency in Tanzania and Zanzibar is the Tanzanian Shilling (TZS). However, the US Dollar is widely accepted (e.g., in hotels and tourist activities). ATMs are readily available in major cities such as Dar es Salaam, Arusha, and Stone Town but can be rare in remote areas, so it is advisable to carry some cash. Credit cards (mainly Visa and Mastercard) are accepted in upscale hotels, restaurants, and tour offices, often with a 3–5% fee. For small purchases, markets, and Dala-Dala rides, cash is essential.
Our trip to Tanzania and Zanzibar was by far one of the most expensive we’ve taken: accommodations that met European standards were relatively costly. Many hotels were surrounded by high fences and located away from villages, making it difficult to leave. Drivers and guides often took us to specific supermarkets or shops with overpriced tourist rates. Even in local markets, tourists were charged 5–10 times the local price. On tours, a driver would take us to a location, where locals would guide us. Despite paying for the tour, we were often encouraged to pay or buy products from others involved.
Safari in Tanzania
Tanzania is one of the best destinations for a safari in Africa. With an impressive variety of national parks and reserves, the country offers unforgettable experiences for nature lovers and adventurers. The most famous national parks are Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, Tarangire, and Selous, some of the most spectacular safari destinations in the world.
Best National Parks for a Safari
Serengeti
The Serengeti National Park is perhaps Tanzania’s most famous national park, known for the annual Great Migration, when millions of wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles cross the plains in search of fresh grass. The park is also home to the “Big Five” — lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo, and rhinoceros — in their natural habitat. Cheetahs, wildebeest, zebras, giraffes, hyenas, and many other species can also be seen here.
Ngorongoro Crater
The Ngorongoro Crater, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the largest intact volcanic crater in the world and hosts a huge animal population. Here, besides the Big Five, you can see hippos, hyenas, a wide variety of birds, including raptors, and endangered species such as the black rhino.
Tarangire
Tarangire National Park is famous for its giant baobab trees and elephant population. Especially in the dry season, the park attracts many animals to the Tarangire River. Lions, leopards, zebras, giraffes, and various antelope species can also be found here.
Selous
Selous Game Reserve is one of Africa’s largest wildlife reserves and is less touristy, offering a pristine, remote atmosphere. The park provides opportunities to see large wildlife like elephants, buffalo, hippos, crocodiles, and lions, as well as numerous bird species.
Tips for a Successful Safari
Booking a Safari
It is recommended to book your safari in advance to ensure availability and know what services you will receive. A good option is Safari Bookings, which offers a wide range of safaris with varying lengths, routes, and price ranges. You can book a private safari or join a group. Many accommodations also offer direct booking. Avoid booking through street vendors on-site.
Luxury, Mid-Range, or Budget
Depending on your budget, you can choose luxury, mid-range, or budget options. Differences include accommodation standards, meals, and whether the tour is private or group-based.
Luxury safaris provide premium experiences, with elegant tents or bungalows, pools, spas, and gourmet restaurants. Budget options offer simpler accommodations, giving a closer experience to nature and local life. Mid-range tours offer a balance between comfort and authenticity. Despite accommodations, the safari experience in the national parks often follows the same mass tourism routes.
Clothing
For a safari, wear loose, long-sleeved clothing to protect against mosquitoes and sun. Comfortable clothing is essential due to long hours in vehicles. A layered approach is recommended: mornings are cold, afternoons hot. Bring a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, insect repellent, and neutral colors (khaki, olive, brown) to blend with nature. Avoid bright colors like red or yellow and black or blue (attract mosquitoes). Wear sturdy shoes, like hiking boots.
Camera Gear
A good camera with a zoom lens is essential. A telephoto lens of at least 200 mm is ideal. Bring enough memory cards and batteries, and protect the camera from dust and sand. A camera backpack is useful for storage and accessibility.
Zanzibar – Dream Beaches & Culture 🏝️
North: Tourist Hub with the Best Beaches
The north is Zanzibar’s most touristy region. Unlike the east coast, there are minimal tidal differences, allowing swimming at any time. Popular spots include Nungwi and Kendwa, with hotels, bars, and activities. Nungwi is lively, while Kendwa is known for wide beaches and full moon parties. Luxury and entertainment seekers will enjoy this area.
East: Nature, Kitesurfing & Tidal Phenomena
The east coast is famous for its endless beaches and dramatic ebb and flow. High tide allows swimming; low tide reveals tidal flats. Popular beaches include Paje, Jambiani, and Matemwe. Paje is a hub for kitesurfers and backpackers, with small accommodations, beach bars, and surf schools. Jambiani is quieter and traditional. Matemwe offers access to Mnemba Atoll, popular with divers. The east is less crowded than the north.
South: Calm Atmosphere & Unique Experiences
The south is the least developed tourist area, with boutique hotels and eco-lodges but limited infrastructure. Key locations are Kizimkazi and Michamvi. Kizimkazi is known for dolphin tours. Michamvi, a southeastern peninsula, features stunning sunsets and a relaxed vibe, ideal for travelers seeking a quieter experience.
Excursions & Activities
- ›Stone Town – Historic old town with narrow streets, wooden doors, and rich history.
- ›Spice Tours – Discover cloves, vanilla, cinnamon, and other exotic flavors on a spice farm tour.
- ›Prison Island – Known for giant tortoises and beautiful beaches.
- ›Jozani Forest – Home to rare red colobus monkeys and impressive mangroves.
- ›Mnemba Atoll – Excellent diving and snorkeling spot with colorful corals, tropical fish, and sea turtles.
- ›Dolphin Tours in Kizimkazi – Observe wild dolphins in their natural habitat.
- ›Kuza Cave – Hidden lagoon inside a cave with crystal-clear water.
- ›The Rock Restaurant – Famous restaurant on a rock in the sea, accessible by foot or boat depending on tides.
- ›Safari Blue – Unforgettable boat tour on traditional dhows, including snorkeling, sandbank exploration, and fresh seafood.
Personal Travel Diary ✍️
Day 1: Arrival & Accommodation in Arusha
After around 11 hours of flight, departing from Vienna Airport (VIE) with a stopover in Doha (DOH), we finally arrived at Kilimanjaro Airport (JRO) in Tanzania. At the airport entrance, several taxi drivers were already waiting for passengers. Since travel forums and official sources strongly advised against booking a taxi on site, we had arranged a pickup from our accommodation in advance. Now we were standing there, and no one was in sight. Far and wide, nothing. After contacting the accommodation via SMS, a driver leisurely arrived after about half an hour. We reminded ourselves that clocks here tick a little slower. The drive to our lodge was an adventurous mix of crawling along and wild overtaking maneuvers. Vehicles in front and behind us were either in poor condition or so overloaded that they seemed about to tip over any moment. I closed my eyes.
After about 1.5 hours, we reached our accommodation, the Banana Farm Eco Hostel in Arusha, which I highly recommend. The name lived up to itself. The lovingly maintained and eco-managed banana farm was located in the hills around Mount Meru, right by a river. Besides various banana varieties, which could be enjoyed for free all day, the farm also grew vegetables like potatoes and chili peppers. The farm was home to some animals, including cows and goats, which even helped power a small biogas plant. During an included tour, guests could learn more about the farm and ecological farming practices. There was also a small shop on site where water, drinks, and snacks could be purchased—very convenient, as the location was a bit remote with hardly any infrastructure nearby. We moved into our lodge, located a bit lower on the hill, surrounded by forest. Shortly after, a few monkeys visited, playing in the trees outside our windows and peeking curiously into our cabin. We ended the day with dinner sampling African cuisine and a campfire.
Day 2: Mount Meru & Surroundings
Since we missed the tour to the Mount Meru waterfalls offered by our accommodation, we decided to explore the surroundings on our own. We were assured it would not be a problem around the lodge, as signposts should lead the way to the mountain. After only a few meters, however, the signs disappeared, and we tried to navigate using Google Maps. What started as a small walk around the lodge and through the nearby village quickly became more adventurous. Soon, we encountered workers seemingly extracting resources in the mountains (possibly illegally). Through hand gestures and shouts, we were made aware we should leave the area. We turned back and reached a small, impoverished village. Though stared at and approached by vendors on every corner, the locals were generally friendly. Overall, I couldn’t shake the uneasy feeling that nothing should be done without a local guide. And that is indeed the recommendation. I was relieved to return to the lodge. Afterwards, we joined a guided tour of the banana farm, even catching a glimpse of Mount Meru in the distance.
Day 3: Safari Start & Tarangire National Park
Early in the morning, we departed for our 5-day private guided safari, booked in advance through safaribookings.com. Our tour guide from “Migration Venture Africa” was already waiting with a 4x4 Jeep. Soon, we joined a convoy on the road, stopping at a tourist stop with souvenir and food shops. There, we stocked up on food, used the restrooms, and—well—shopped. Stops like these would become common during our journey. To our dismay, our guide acted more as a driver and salesperson than an informative guide. We had heard similar reports from other tourists. Consequently, throughout the safari, we learned very little about the parks, animals, or local people, but were expected to tip and book additional tours through him. Truly disappointing.
After about 2.5 hours of driving, we reached Tarangire National Park, known for its large elephant population, baobab trees, and African pythons, covering around 2,850 km². During the dry season, the Tarangire River attracts numerous animals, including lions, leopards, giraffes, zebras, and buffalo. The park is also a birdwatcher's paradise, with over 500 species.
During our first game drive, we spotted many animals and enjoyed great views from the open-top Jeep. Our guide even had binoculars. The ride, however, on the gravel roads was far from comfortable—very bumpy with potholes and uneven surfaces. We quickly learned what safari guides jokingly call a "free African massage."
Every 1-2 hours, we stopped at small rest stations with toilets. So, no need to relieve yourself in the bushes! Lunch was provided in a box, including a vegetarian option. Don’t expect a gourmet meal—some rice, vegetables, juice, and maybe a small dessert. At lunch, mass tourism was evident, with rest stations crowded with tourists. After lunch and two more hours of game drive, we left the park and headed to our accommodation, the Pamoja Olea Farm Lodge.
The drive passed through villages with poor housing, bustling markets, tourist shops, and Maasai herding cattle along the roads.
The lodge? A shock! A large hotel complex with a sprawling pool and many amenities, far from the surrounding poor areas. Staff were overly friendly and attentive, apparently trying to meet European standards, even providing a personal butler and chef. Throughout our stay, I couldn’t shake the feeling of decadence. An authentic experience would look very different.
Day 4: Serengeti National Park
Early morning after breakfast, our guide picked us up for the drive to Serengeti National Park, reached after about two hours of beautiful landscape. The sun blazed overhead as we searched for animals.
Serengeti National Park in Tanzania is one of the world’s most famous parks, known for the Great Migration, where over 1.5 million wildebeest, accompanied by zebras and gazelles, move across the savannah in search of fresh grazing. The park covers around 30,000 km² and hosts incredible wildlife. With some luck, you can spot the Big Five—lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, and rhino—as well as cheetahs, hyenas, hippos, crocodiles, and over 500 bird species.
After several hours of game drive and spotting many animals, we headed to Tukaone Camp, where we would spend the night. As night fell, we arrived in the wilderness. The camp had 5-6 large tents and several smaller ones, plus a main tent for meals. We were briefed on safety protocols and given a walkie-talkie. Once dark, leaving the tent alone was forbidden. And it became pitch black. Accompanied by eerie noises, we fell asleep. In the middle of the night, some animals disturbed our tent. Something jumped on the roof. The thought of the leaky wooden floor didn’t help. Luckily, nothing more happened.
Day 5: Serengeti & Maasai Village
At 6 a.m., we set off for our second day in the park. A cold wind blew as we headed to remote areas. Fewer tourists meant fewer animals were spotted. After hours of driving over the wasteland, sightings were limited. The extra day felt artificially extended without real added value. My recommendation: one day in the Serengeti is enough.
On the way to our accommodation, we visited a Maasai village offering tours for tourists. First, a fee (~€90 per person) was paid. After a traditional welcome dance (inviting us to join), we were led to a large souvenir stand with overpriced items (mostly from China) sold as handmade crafts. A brief talk about village life followed, a home and school visit, a song by children, and a donation request. Soon after, we were asked to leave. The experience felt like a forced sales tour, making us very uncomfortable.
The night’s lodge, Ang’ata Ngorongoro Camp, was a highlight. Walkie-talkies were provided, and leaving tents at night was discouraged. Large animal tracks near our tent revealed why—buffalo and elephants had visited the camp overnight. Hot showers required preheated water, enough for only two people. Temperatures were low, but thankfully hot water bottles were provided.
Day 6: Ngorongoro Crater
Ngorongoro Crater, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a must-see in Tanzania. The largest intact volcanic caldera in the world, about 20 km in diameter and covering 260 km², forms a nearly closed ecosystem, home to lions, elephants, buffalo, zebras, wildebeest, and rare black rhinos. The area also has lakes and swamps with hippos and flamingos. Highly recommended.
We only spent the morning and left after lunch, causing some discussion with our guide. We would have preferred to spend the rest of the day in the park. After some half-hearted calls to our agency, our driver took us back to the hotel, stopping at souvenir shops along the way.
Day 7: Lake Manyara
On the last safari day, we visited Lake Manyara National Park (approx. 330 km²), known for its varied landscapes—forests, savannahs, and swampy shores. Famous for tree-climbing lions, the park also hosts elephants, hippos, buffalo, giraffes, and over 400 bird species, including flamingos, pelicans, and kingfishers. Lake Manyara was probably the least spectacular park, but elephants were closest here. After three hours, we returned to Arusha, ending the safari.
Day 8: Materuni Waterfalls & Coffee Farm
Before we continued our journey to Zanzibar, we spent another day in Arusha. Through our accommodation, we had booked a tour to the Materuni Waterfalls and a coffee tour. After about an hour's drive, we reached a small hill, from where we continued on foot. We used the makeshift toilet facilities and began our hike together with our driver and a local tour guide. The sky was overcast at that time, so unfortunately, we couldn't catch a glimpse of the Kilimanjaro summit. In good weather, this is possible. After about 40 minutes of walking on a very simple and well-developed tourist path, we finally reached the waterfall, which was definitely worth a visit.
Afterwards, we were served locally cooked, traditional African food. Shortly after, the coffee tour began. A few locals showed us how coffee is prepared—from the bean to the finished drink. In between, we were encouraged to participate with singing and dancing. After tasting the finished coffee, beans were offered for purchase. We headed back, but not before trying the locally brewed banana beer.
Day 9: Lake Duluti & Zanzibar
Since our flight to Zanzibar was not until the afternoon, we first visited Lake Duluti, only half an hour from Arusha. After a guided tour along the lakeshore, we took a small boat trip. One should not expect too much, though. In some areas, the thickets along the shore were very dense, making it difficult to navigate around the lake. There were also many mosquitoes. At least we saw a few birds. Afterwards, we drove directly to Arusha airport.
Upon arrival, we were informed that our flight could depart in just 20 minutes, although it was originally scheduled for three hours later. We were rushed through security and soon boarded the robust propeller plane of Auric Air. The plane roared loudly, and during the roughly one-hour flight, it was unusually quiet among the passengers—perhaps because the flight attendant was chatting with the captain through the open cockpit door. After some time, we were served a drink and nuts. Only after arriving in Zanzibar did we realize there had been a pocket knife in our hand luggage. So much for the local security check. Once safely at Zanzibar's Abeid Amani Karume International Airport, a taxi was already waiting to take us to our hotel.
Day 10-14: Relaxation in Bwejuu
We decided to avoid the tourist-heavy north and instead booked a beautiful hotel (Sahara Zanzibar) in Bwejuu on Zanzibar's east coast. The small fishing village is about an hour from Stone Town and is perfect for travelers seeking relaxation away from the crowds. Unlike the busier beaches in Paje or Nungwi, Bwejuu is less touristy and ideal for those looking to unwind. The minor drawback is that due to the tides, the water is only high enough for swimming twice a day for a few hours. At low tide, the sea recedes so far that it is only visible in the distance, creating an impressive mudflat landscape instead. Additionally, infrastructure is much more limited. The choice of beach restaurants is very restricted. However, Bwejuu can also serve as a base for trips to Paje, the Jozani Forest, or the nearby Blue Lagoon. After an exhausting safari, it is certainly the right place to relax.
Day 15-20: Relaxation in Pongwe & Stone Town
After a few days, we left Bwejuu and moved to our hotel in Pongwe, also on Zanzibar's east coast. The beach there is considered one of the most beautiful on the island, with fine white sand and turquoise water. Simply stunning. The only downside was the many Maasai selling items every few meters, which became quite annoying after a while.
On the third day, we took a trip to Stone Town. The journey took about one and a half hours. We booked a taxi for $50 round trip. Much cheaper is public transport, the so-called Dala-Dalas. The name "Dala-Dala" comes from the English term "Dollar-Dollar." You can actually get a ride to Stone Town for about $1. These minibuses are often so crowded that some passengers have to cling to the steps. Additionally, there is no fixed schedule, so it can take several hours to reach Stone Town. In Stone Town itself, there was a lot of traffic. The air was stuffy, and at times it smelled unpleasant. We had pre-booked a tour through our hotel and were met by our German-speaking guide. Together, we visited the following sights in the old town while learning more about Stone Town's history:
- ›House of Wonders (Beit-al-Ajaib): One of Zanzibar’s most impressive buildings, formerly a Sultan’s palace.
- ›Forodhani Gardens: A waterfront park that comes alive in the evening with its famous street food market.
- ›Old Fort: A 17th-century stone fortress, now a cultural center with small shops.
- ›Freddie Mercury House: The birthplace of the legendary Queen singer, now hosting a small exhibition.
- ›Darajani Market: A central market offering exotic spices, fresh fruit, fish, and handicrafts.
- ›Anglican Cathedral & Former Slave Market: A moving memorial on the site of the former slave market, with underground dungeons.
- ›Arab & Indian Wooden Doors: Throughout the city, you can find intricately carved doors, a hallmark of Stone Town.
Unfortunately, the sights all appeared somewhat run-down. We honestly expected more from a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At least it offered a glimpse of life in the narrow streets and the bustling markets.
Day 21-22: Dar Es Salaam & Return Flight
After three weeks in Africa, we began our journey home. First, we took a taxi to Stone Town, where our ferry ("Zan Fast Ferries") to Dar es Salaam was departing. Immediately after getting out of the car at the harbor, a security officer greeted us, took our luggage (?), and directed us to a seat in a large hall. Apparently, this is how tourists are handled. When the ferry arrived, we had to pay the officer $10. Fortunately, we still had some cash. Shortly afterward, boarding began. After about 1.5 hours of travel, we finally arrived—suffering from unusually severe seasickness—in Dar es Salaam. Once there, a security officer immediately attended to our luggage. A short taxi ride later, we reached the hotel booked for one night. During a brief walk around the city, we gained a few impressions. The streets were crowded, noisy, and you had to watch your step carefully. In some corners, an odd smell wafted up. We visited a restaurant and stocked up on supplies, but were relieved to return to the hotel. The next day, a taxi picked us up and took us to the airport. After a several-hour layover in Doha, we finally reached our destination airport in Vienna.
My Conclusion
The trip to Tanzania and Zanzibar was one of our most expensive trips to date. While the safaris—and especially camping in the national parks—were a true experience, we saw very little of local life. Not least because our safari guide primarily saw himself as a driver and often remained silent. Staying in hotels surrounded by high fences and far from many poor neighborhoods gave us the constant feeling of not being truly free to move. As tourists, isolated from the rest of the population, it was difficult to experience the local way of life authentically. Instead, we experienced what it feels like to be a minority in a country. We were frequently stared at, begged, or drawn into pushy sales pitches, and quickly felt insecure moving alone through villages and towns as Europeans. This also seemed less welcome. A local guide certainly offered safety. Additionally, the constant sales trips nearly drained our patience. Clearly, the goal was to extract money from us. Even the Zanzibar vacation was not as relaxing as we had hoped and didn’t quite justify the price. In short, the trip was beautiful—especially scenically—but unfortunately came with many caveats regarding safety, value for money, and authenticity.